Let’s Explore Our Favorite Anchorages in the Bahamas
I remember running into some old friends in the clear, emerald green waters of the far Bahamas. It was a drastic change of scenery from the muddy brown rivers of Oriental, N.C., where we all used to dock our boats. Our friend asked us to follow him to his favorite anchorage in the Exumas. Knowing what a seasoned Bahamian sailor he was, and wanting to know more about anchorages in the Bahamas, we quickly agreed.
Before we took off, he looked at me and said, “Now don’t you go writing about this on your blog or anything.”
“I would never!”
Anchorages in the Bahamas Are a Taste of Paradise
Many sailors go to the Bahamas for the seclusion it can offer. They have visions of isolated islands completely barren of two-legged creatures. Those dreamy shores have been incubating under the panorama of a truly perfect view: white sand lapping up crystal-clear water as it paints a perfect scheme of greens and blues, shimmering like jewels under the sunlight.
So why would I go and share these anchorages of pure magic? The Bahamas are made up of more than 700 islands, cays, and islets. There is plenty of magic to go around. The more the merrier, I say! Sailors add to the magic, the fun, and the community.
So allow me to impart some of our favorite anchorages in the Bahamas, even at the risk of uncovering some long-kept secrets.
South Staniel
Staniel Cay is probably the most popular cay in the Exumas. Why? Because of the swimming pigs that overpopulate the island. And yes, they really do swim, which we learned as one tried to board our boat!
The most popular anchorage in Staniel Cay is right outside Thunderball Grotto. It’s an astonishing cave famous for its appearance in a James Bond movie, but it is incredibly popular. Among motorboat owners and sailboat owners alike. That results in a crowded, chaotic, and debaucherous anchorage.
South Staniel is much quieter, more protected, and offers a stunning anchorage on the southern end of the island. It can be one of the more coveted anchorages in the Bahamas during a northern blow, when boats are scrambling to find one of the few anchorages that offers northern protection in the Exumas.
Where to Anchor
Approaching this spot requires a delicate dance with the tide and visual piloting to avoid running aground just outside the anchorage. Once inside, you are well protected from the north and west. Lovely coral reefs all around are there to explore, and lobsters are just waiting to be dinner. A small sunken airplane a little closer to the shore is great for snorkeling.
From the beach, it is a little bit of a walk to town. We brought a wagon with us to stock up on groceries and do our laundry.
Black Point
Black Point is one of the anchorages in the Bahamas that is overlooked by many sailors. But it is the perfect place to kick back, take a breather, and soak in some slow Bahamian life. When I think back to my time here, one thing comes to mind: smiles. Everyone at Black Point struck me as content, relaxed, and happy.
Where to Anchor
The anchorage at Black Point is exceptional. The island’s geography offers protection against north, south, and easterly winds. It is quite large, so there isn’t much risk of the anchorage filling up during a blow.
The Bread
Lorraine’s coconut bread is famous in the Bahamian sailing community. It is different and sweet, with swirls of delicious coconut throughout. She sells out quickly!
The Sharks
If you want to see sharks but want to skip the chaos and crowds at Compass Cay, Black Point is a great place to watch these beauties glide by. Nurse sharks are quite common in the Bahamas. Here, you are almost guaranteed to see them floating above the sea bed near the docks.
If you are lucky, you will see a very rare thing: a piebald shark. Nurse sharks are not spotted, unless they have a pigmentation disease known as piebaldism. One nurse shark in Black Point is marked with this uncommon phenomena, and it is quite a sight. She hovers above the seafloor lazily beneath the docks at the laundromat.
The Laundromat
This laundromat has somewhat of a reputation. It offers quite possibly the most beautiful view you will enjoy from any laundromat in the world. The staff is particularly helpful and friendly. It’s the most fun you will ever have doing laundry.
Great Inagua
Great Inagua is the southernmost Bahamian island. The Bahamas can feel somewhat similar across many of the underpopulated chain of isolated islands. But way out here, on the edge of the Bahamian map, it feels different. The island is large and home to more people, wildlife, and culture.
If you’re lucky, you might catch sight of the Caribbean’s finest sailors, working their timeless magic in a traditional, motorless Haitian sloop. Haitians regularly sail to Great Inagua for supplies and aid. Seeing these traditional sailing vessels in action is a glimpse into maritime history.
Where to Anchor
Matthew Town Dock has a few places to pull your boat up. You can tie to the seawall for free. But I recommend doing this for no more than about an hour. If there is any swell inside the harbor, which there will be, your lines will chafe right off the cement wall in a short amount of time. I couldn’t envision a way to tie to the wall without this occurring. I recommend tying off to one of their slips and paying the reasonable fee to overnight your boat there.
You can anchor outside on the western side of Great Inagua depending on the weather. Along the west and northern tip of the island is a small lagoon that is teeming with fish, lobsters, and undisturbed wildlife in and out of the water.
If you look on the map, you will see that this portion of the island offers little to no protection from the north, west, or south. But if the east trade winds are blowing, you can enjoy the lovely reefs in the lee of Matthew Town.
You will find so many things to love about Great Inagua. My top four are as follows:
- The people
- The shells
- The birds
- The reefs
The People
The local people made our little wandering family feel right at home. It was Easter shortly after our arrival, and our two girls were psyched for an Easter egg hunt. The locals welcomed us with open arms and let our kids partake in the community event. When it was time, all of the children commenced to run and scream as they collected their weight in Easter eggs.
A couple of locals saw the chaos and quickly herded my 3-year-old, the youngest child in the game, to a pile of hidden eggs before they were all scooped up by the ravenous older children. Pepper still talks about going back there for another Easter egg hunt. And I would go back just for the conch salad.
Shells
OK, let’s talk about seashells. In case you haven’t noticed, I have no problem sharing hidden anchorages in the Bahamas…but perfect seashell beaches? Well, that one is a little harder for me.
How about this, I will go ahead and tell you that the best seashells I have ever found anywhere are somewhere on Great Inagua, and you can figure out where on the island they are.
Birds
If you love birds, then you probably already know about Great Inagua. The largest gathering of flamingos in this part of the world calls the island home. You can see thousands of them. But expect them to be pretty far away.
Reefs
Our anchorage in Great Inagua was surrounded by some of the most interesting and beautiful coral reefs we had seen on our entire Bahamian trip. We hopped right off the boat in our anchorage and snorkeled amidst a living rainbow of creatures.
A Drop in the Bucket of Anchorages in the Bahamas
This is just a drop in an ocean of breathtaking anchorages in the Bahamas. Do you want to swim with a fever of eagle rays? The Bahamas have an anchorage for that. Want to pet sharks? There’s an anchorage for that! Sea horses? Turtles? They’re all there.
When you go, you will compile your own collection of best-kept secrets in paradise.
Olivia de Soria
You might also like
